The boat's width doubles when the transom is added, and the shed gets smaller. Much smaller.
Closer look at the transom. I decided the whole thing didn't need to be 1/2", so the rudder area is 3/4" thick and there's doublers at the corner where my hiking butt will be trying to pry that wing off. The rest is just 6mm. I got some kevlar tape pretty cheap, and it's a bear to work with- I'll save it for flatter and straighter areas.
Here's my helper holding up the stem (still in her pajamas). I had some thick hondo mahog laying around, so that's what I used. The middle chunk of wood between the G10 plates is loose and acting like a spacer for my hockey puck pole pivot. I ordered my bow prod from Forte so I can verify my clearances with the stuff in hand rather than hope it comes in exactly on spec. A neat thing about an articulating prod that has guys and a downhaul is the elimination of any bending stress, so the pole diameter can be downsized a bit- I ordered the 1.7"ΓΈ.
And with the transom on, there's no reason not to offer up the boat sides and see just how things look. It looks like cutting the frames to fit (between the chine and sheer) rather than to plan will be the way to go. One of the benefits of cutting the boat parts myself is letting the parts run long at the transom, so I can hit that 216" max right on the money. I set the transom 1/8" inside that, to allow for some glass layers.
Next up is a bunch of zip-tying of the chines, milling and gluing up some stringers and sheer clamps, and a bunch of frame cutting. I've got more fairing to do on the keel, and the bulb needs it too. Throw in some rudder fab, and I've got lots of directions to go when the afternoons need filling.
And I'm helping with Shawn's PacCup preparations too, just to keep from getting too idle!
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